PF940v2 Build Guide u2014 Full-Size Glock 17/22 P80
Building a Polymer80 PF940v2 is the definitive project for creating a full-size, duty-grade handgun. This guide provides the complete, no-nonsense process for assembling a reliable Glock 17 (9mm) or Glock 22 (.40 S&W) clone from the frame up. We’ll cover the essential tools, a detailed parts list, the step-by-step machining and assembly, known issues with fixes, and the critical test-firing protocol to ensure your build runs right.
1. Required Tools & Workspace Setup
Before ordering parts, confirm you have the proper tools. A clean, well-lit bench with a vise is non-negotiable for precision work. The PF940v2 requires specific milling and drilling operations that demand control.
- Hand Drill or Drill Press: A variable-speed hand drill is sufficient, but a press is superior for perfect pin hole alignment.
- Polymer80 Jig & Included Drill Bits: The PF940v2-specific jig (marked “FS” for Full Size) and the provided 3mm and 4mm bits are mandatory.
- End-Cutting Snips & Exacto Knife: For cleanly removing the frame tabs.
- Flat Files & Round/Rat-Tail Files: A set of armorers’ files for smoothing pin holes and the recoil spring channel.
- Dremel Tool with Router Bit (#191) or Mill Bits: The fastest, most controlled method for clearing the recoil spring channel. A hand file works but takes significantly longer.
- Armorer’s Punch Set & Small Hammer: For driving pins during assembly.
- Vise & Soft Jaws: To securely hold the jig during drilling.
- Safety Glasses & Dust Mask: Polymer dust is a nuisance; protect your eyes and lungs.
2. PF940v2 Parts List & Sourcing
The PF940v2 frame is the foundation. All other parts are standard Gen 3 Glock components. You can buy a complete Upper Parts Kit (UPK) and Lower Parts Kit (LPK), or source individual components. Note: The only difference between a G17 and G22 build is the barrel and ejector; all other parts are identical.
| Component | Glock Gen 3 Part # (Example) | Notes & Critical Specs | Est. Cost Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| PF940v2 Frame & Jig | N/A (P80 SKU) | The core component. Ensure it’s the “V2” model. | $100 – $150 |
| Slide (Complete or Stripped) | Compatible aftermarket or OEM | For G17: 9mm; For G22: .40 S&W. Must be Gen 3 spec. | $200 – $400 |
| Barrel | G17: SP01367; G22: SP02067 | Match caliber to slide. Aftermarket threaded barrels are common. | $80 – $180 |
| Upper Parts Kit (UPK) | SP01074 (G17) or SP02074 (G22) | Includes recoil spring assembly, extractor, striker, etc. | $70 – $120 |
| Lower Parts Kit (LPK) | SP01075 (G17) or SP02075 (G22) | CRITICAL: Contains the trigger housing with ejector. G17 uses 336 ejector; G22 uses 30274 ejector. | $60 – $100 |
| Sights | Standard Glock dovetail | Not included with most slides. Steel recommended. | $40 – $100 |
| Magazines | G17: 17-rd; G22: 15-rd | OEM Glock magazines are the gold standard for reliability. | $20 – $30 ea |
For a deep dive on parts compatibility and troubleshooting common LPK issues, reference our P80 Troubleshooting Guide.
3. Step-by-Step Frame Machining & Assembly
Follow this sequence precisely. Rushing the milling or drilling steps is the primary cause of out-of-spec frames that won’t function.
Step 1: Jig Setup & Tab Removal
Secure the frame inside the two halves of the PF940v2 jig using the provided screws. Ensure the frame is seated fully. Using end-cutting snips, cleanly remove the three polymer tabs on the rear of the frame and the single tab in the front rail section. Use an Exacto knife to flush-cut any remaining material.
Step 2: Drilling the Pin Holes
Clamp the jig securely in a vise, ensuring it’s level. Using the 3mm bit, drill the two rear trigger housing pin holes (marked “R”). Apply steady, moderate pressure. Flip the jig and drill the two front locking block pin holes (marked “F”) with the 4mm bit. Do not rock the drill. Clean the holes with a round file if necessary, but avoid enlarging them.
Step 3: Milling the Recoil Spring Channel
This is the most critical machining step. Remove the frame from the jig. Using a Dremel with a #191 router bit or mill bits, carefully clear the channel marked in the front of the frame. Your goal is a smooth, U-shaped channel that allows the recoil spring to travel freely without catching. Go slow, test-fit the recoil spring assembly frequently, and stop once it sits flush with the frame rail shelf. A poorly cleared channel is a top cause of failure to return to battery.
Step 4: Installing Rails & Fitting Pins
Insert the front locking block rail and the rear rail module into their slots. They should drop in with minimal resistance. Start the provided pins through the holes. They will be tightu2014this is by design. Use a file to deburr the holes and lightly polish the pins, then tap them through with a punch and hammer until they are flush. The rails should not move.
Step 5: Lower Parts Kit (LPK) Installation
Install the trigger mechanism housing with ejector first, followed by the trigger assembly with bar, then the slide stop lever and magazine catch. Use the punch to install the corresponding pins. The trigger pin (the one you drilled with the 3mm bit) is often the tightest. Ensure all components move freely without binding. For compact builders, the process is similar; see our PF940c Build Guide for model-specific nuances.
Step 6: Slide Assembly & Final Fit
Assemble your slide with the barrel, recoil spring assembly, and UPK components. Once complete, rack the slide onto the frame rails. It should move smoothly with slight resistance. Perform a functions check: trigger reset, striker click, safety plunger engagement.
4. Known Issues & Fixes: The PF940v2 Ejector
The most documented issue with early PF940v2 builds involves ejection patterns. The root cause is often the ejector height in the trigger housing.
- Symptom: Weak ejection, erratic brass pattern, or brass-to-face.
- Cause: The 336 (9mm) or 30274 (.40) ejector may sit slightly low, failing to impart consistent force on the casing.
- Fix Procedure: Carefully remove the trigger housing. Using needle-nose pliers, very gently bend the ejector tip upward by 1-2mm. Reinstall and test fire. Often, a simple replacement with a known OEM Gen 4 ejector (marked “30274” which works for both 9mm and .40 in Gen 3 housings) solves the issue permanently.
For a comprehensive list of solutions to feeding, firing, and ejection problems, our troubleshooting resource is essential.
5. Test-Firing Protocol & Break-In
Do not carry this firearm until it has passed a rigorous test protocol. Begin with safety: verify an empty chamber, clear muzzle direction, and use eye/ear protection.
- Initial Function Check: With the gun empty, ensure the trigger resets, the slide locks back on an empty mag, and the safety mechanisms engage.
- First Magazine (2 Rounds): Load only 2 rounds of full-power factory ammunition (124gr NATO for 9mm is ideal). Fire one round, ensuring ejection and feeding of the second. Fire the second, ensuring slide locks back.
- Progressive Reliability Test: Load 5 rounds, fire, checking for consistent ejection (3-4 o’clock pattern). Repeat for 10 rounds, then a full 17-round magazine.
- Final Validation: Fire 200 rounds of mixed ammunition (including your intended defense ammo) without a single malfunction. This is the minimum standard for a duty-ready firearm.
During break-in, you may experience a few failures in the first 50-100 rounds as parts mate. If failures persist, stop and diagnose. The process for large-frame builds like the PF45 (Glock 20/21) follows similar but more stringent principles due to higher pressures.
6. PF940v2 vs. Other Full-Size Options
The PF940v2 isn’t the only full-size 80% frame. The PFS9 is a serialized, complete alternative. While the PF940v2 requires machining and offers maximum customization, the PFS9 is a tool-ready frame for a different kind of builder. For a detailed comparison, read our PFS9 Review.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use Gen 4 or Gen 5 Glock parts in my PF940v2?
No. The PF940v2 is designed exclusively for Gen 3 Glock components. Gen 4/5 parts, including recoil spring assemblies, triggers, and slides, are not compatible due to different dimensions and locking mechanisms.
My slide is extremely tight on the rails. What should I do?
First, ensure the recoil spring channel is fully cleared. If the issue persists, apply a small amount of high-quality gun oil to the rails and cycle the slide manually 200-300 times to wear in the polymer. Avoid sanding the metal rails.
The PF940v2 is the full-size frame for Glock 17/22 slides and barrels. The PF940c is the compact frame for Glock 19/23 slides and barrels. The machining process is identical, but the jigs, rail sets, and parts kits are model-specific.
Is the PF940v2 build legal in my state?
Laws regarding homemade firearms (80% builds) vary drastically by state and locality. It is the builder’s sole responsibility to research and comply with all federal, state, and local laws before purchasing or manufacturing a firearm.
Why does my trigger feel gritty or not reset?
This is almost always due to a burr on the trigger bar or connector, or improper engagement with the safety plunger in the slide. Disassemble, inspect for machining marks, and polish the contact surfaces of the trigger bar and connector. Ensure the connector is at the correct angle (approx. 90 degrees from the housing wall).
Can I build a long-slide Glock 34 on the PF940v2 frame?
Yes. The PF940v2 frame will accept a Glock 34 (Gen 3) slide and barrel, creating a competition-ready platform. You will need a G34-specific slide, barrel, and longer recoil spring assembly.
Building a PF940v2 is a hands-on project that results in a deeply understood, reliable firearm. By following this technical guide, focusing on precise machining, and adhering to a strict test protocol, you’ll create a full-size pistol that meets professional standards. Once your build is complete and proven, visit our shop for upgradesu2014from performance triggers to optic-ready slidesu2014to take your P80 to the next level.